Phnom Bokor: The Abandoned French Hill Station

Phnom Bokor was developed by the French colonial administration as a hill station and sanatorium in the early 20th century. Construction began in the 1920s, with several buildings erected, including a luxury hotel, a casino, a church, and administrative offices. The site was designed to serve as a refuge from the tropical heat and to support French colonial governance.

Abandoned in the 1970s during periods of conflict, the hill station fell into disrepair, with many structures left in ruins. The old Bokor Palace Hotel and Casino, with its crumbling walls and empty windows, is a prominent landmark that captures the atmosphere of a bygone era. Visitors interested in Cambodia’s colonial past will find Phnom Bokor a compelling site to understand the country’s layered history.

Most travelers start their trip to Phnom Bokor from Kampot town, which is about 40 kilometers from Phnom Penh and easily reachable by bus or car. From Kampot, the drive to the hill station takes roughly 1.5 hours on a paved but winding road. Renting a motorbike is a popular option, costing between $7 and $10 per day, allowing flexibility to stop at waterfalls and viewpoints along the way.

Tuk-tuks are also available for a day trip, typically priced around $25 to $35 depending on negotiation and time spent. The route passes through the scenic Bokor National Park, where the entrance fee of $5 USD per person is collected at the park gate. It’s advisable to start early in the morning to avoid afternoon rain, especially during the wet season from June to October.

Phnom Bokor has several points of interest worth visiting. The most well-known is the old Bokor Palace Hotel and Casino, a large concrete structure with impressive views of the sea and surrounding landscape. Nearby is the abandoned Catholic church, with its Gothic-style windows and decaying walls that make for atmospheric photographs.

Nature lovers will appreciate the park's trails, waterfalls such as Popokvil Falls, and the chance to spot wildlife like birds, monkeys, and squirrels. The summit area features a statue of King Sihanouk on horseback, a tribute to Cambodia’s former monarch. The hill station’s cooler climate and misty mornings create a distinct ambiance compared to the lowlands.

The ideal time to visit Phnom Bokor is during the dry season from November to February when the weather is cooler and rainfall is minimal. Temperatures at the summit can drop to around 20°C, providing relief from the heat experienced in Phnom Penh or Siem Reap. The rainy season from June to October brings lush greenery but also risks slippery roads and limited visibility due to fog.

Morning visits are recommended to enjoy clear views and avoid afternoon showers. Sunset is another popular time, with the sun casting warm colors over the surrounding plains and the Gulf of Thailand in the distance. Keep in mind that facilities on the mountain are limited, so bringing water and snacks is advisable.

While there are no operational hotels at the old hill station itself due to ongoing restoration efforts, several guesthouses and mid-range hotels are available in Kampot town. Budget rooms range from $10 to $20 per night, while mid-range options with air conditioning and private bathrooms can cost $25 to $50.

Some travelers choose to camp or stay in basic bungalows near the park entrance, but these facilities are limited and may lack electricity. For those wanting to spend the night closer to the mountain, it is best to book accommodation in Kampot and arrange a day trip to Phnom Bokor.

When planning a visit to Phnom Bokor, it’s important to wear sturdy footwear as some paths can be uneven and slippery, especially near waterfalls. Mosquito repellent is recommended, particularly in the early morning and late afternoon. Carry enough water and snacks since there are few food stalls on the mountain.

Photography enthusiasts should allocate time to capture the old French buildings and the expansive views of the coast and countryside. If interested in Cambodian temple history, consider combining your trip with visits to nearby sites such as Banteay Srei or Preah Khan, both accessible from Kampot with additional transport arrangements.