Angkor Thom: The Ancient Walled City Beyond Angkor Wat

Angkor Thom was established in the late 12th century as a fortified city to serve as the Khmer Empire’s capital. The name translates to "Great City," and it was designed to reflect both the spiritual and political power of the empire. The city is enclosed by a square wall approximately 8 meters high and 12 kilometers in circumference, surrounded by a wide moat.

The city’s layout features five monumental gates, each guarded by stone statues of gods and demons holding a serpent, representing the Hindu myth of the churning of the ocean of milk. Inside the walls, the city contains an impressive number of temples and structures, with the most famous being the Bayon Temple at its center. The design of Angkor Thom reflects a blend of Hindu and Buddhist beliefs, common during King Jayavarman VII's reign.

Each of the five gates of Angkor Thom is a remarkable example of Khmer stone carving and architecture. The South Gate serves as the primary entrance for most visitors and features a long causeway lined with 54 stone figures on each side, representing devas (gods) and asuras (demons) pulling the naga serpent. The northern, eastern, western, and Victory gates are less crowded but equally impressive.

The gates are about 23 meters high and 37 meters wide, large enough to allow elephants and royal processions to pass through. The intricate faces carved on the towers above the gates are said to represent Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion, or possibly King Jayavarman VII himself.

At the center of Angkor Thom lies the Bayon Temple, famous for its 216 massive stone faces carved into 54 towers. The temple was constructed in the late 12th or early 13th century and served as a state temple representing Buddhist cosmology. The serene yet enigmatic smiling faces look out in all directions, symbolizing the omnipresence of the king or deity.

Bayon is also notable for its extensive bas-reliefs depicting scenes of daily life, battles, and religious rituals of the Khmer Empire. Visitors typically spend 1-2 hours here to appreciate the detailed carvings and complex layout. For a deeper understanding of Bayon’s faces and symbolism, see the Bayon Temple: 216 Stone Faces and What They Mean guide.

Apart from Bayon, Angkor Thom contains several other important religious structures worth visiting. Baphuon is a large three-tiered temple mountain that was once the state temple before Bayon and is located near the royal palace area. Phimeanakas, another temple mountain, served as the king’s private sanctuary.

Terrace of the Elephants and Terrace of the Leper King are two large terraces used for ceremonies and royal events. They are richly decorated with carvings of elephants, lions, and mythological figures. These terraces are located near each other and can be visited in under an hour.

Given the size of Angkor Thom, renting a tuk-tuk for around $15-20 per day is the most comfortable option for most visitors. The tuk-tuk driver will typically wait for you at each temple and provide transport between the various sites inside the city walls. For the more adventurous, motorbike rentals cost between $5 and $10 per day, while bicycles can be rented for $2-3 per day in Siem Reap.

Walking between some temples is possible but can be tiring in the heat, especially during the dry season from November to May. Early mornings or late afternoons provide cooler temperatures and better lighting for photography. The ticket for Angkor Thom is included in the general Angkor pass, so there’s no extra cost beyond the site entrance fee.

To make the most of your visit to Angkor Thom, plan to arrive early to avoid crowds, especially at the South Gate and Bayon Temple. The ticket office opens at 5 a.m., allowing access for sunrise visits. It’s advisable to hire a knowledgeable guide or use a detailed guidebook to understand the historical and cultural context of the temples.

Bring plenty of water, wear comfortable walking shoes, and apply sunscreen. Entry tickets are checked at the entrance, so keep your Angkor pass handy. If your schedule allows, consider combining your visit with nearby temples such as Ta Prohm or Banteay Srei for a fuller understanding of the Angkor archaeological park.