Lolei: The Oldest Roluos Temple and Its Resident Monks

Constructed in 893 AD, Lolei temple was originally built on an island in the middle of a baray, or man-made reservoir, known as the Lolei Baray. This water feature symbolized the Hindu cosmic ocean surrounding Mount Meru, the mythical home of the gods. The temple's location in the center of the reservoir was intentional, emphasizing its spiritual centrality.

Lolei is dedicated to Shiva and was built to honor King Yasovarman’s ancestors. The temple consists of four brick towers arranged on a single platform, surrounded by a laterite wall and moat. The craftsmanship features intricate carvings with early Khmer stylistic elements, providing insight into the development of Khmer art and architecture that influenced later masterpieces such as Angkor Wat.

Lolei temple’s architecture highlights the transition from pre-Angkorian to Angkorian styles. The use of brick as the primary building material contrasts with the sandstone seen in later temples. The temple’s four towers are arranged on a cruciform platform, each tower originally housing a statue of a deity or a royal ancestor.

The temple walls feature carved lintels and pediments depicting Hindu mythology, though the carvings are less elaborate than those at later sites like Bayon Temple or Ta Prohm. Visitors will notice the relatively small scale of Lolei compared to the grand Angkorian complexes, but this modest size adds to its charm and allows for a quiet atmosphere.

An interesting aspect of Lolei temple is the presence of resident Buddhist monks who maintain the site and live in the temple compound. While Lolei originally served Hindu worship, the site has been adapted over the centuries to reflect Cambodia’s predominant Theravada Buddhist faith.

Visitors may encounter monks performing daily rituals or meditating in the temple grounds. These monks provide a living link between Cambodia’s ancient past and its spiritual present. Photography is generally allowed, but it’s respectful to ask permission before taking pictures of the monks or their activities.

Lolei temple is included in the Angkor archaeological park and requires an Angkor pass for entry. The 1-day ticket costs $37, while the 3-day and 7-day passes are $62 and $72 respectively. The ticket office is located near Siem Reap town and opens early enough to allow sunrise visits.

Because Lolei lies a bit farther east from the main cluster of temples around Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat, many visitors opt to combine it with Preah Khan and Banteay Srei for a full-day temple circuit. Hiring a tuk-tuk for the day typically costs $15 to $20, or renting a moto at $5 to $10 per day is a flexible alternative for confident riders.

The best time to visit Lolei temple is during the dry season from November to February when the weather is cooler and less humid. Avoid the rainy season from June to October, as the dirt roads around the Roluos group can become muddy and difficult to navigate.

Bring sun protection such as a hat, sunscreen, and plenty of water, especially if you plan to visit multiple temples in the area. Comfortable walking shoes are recommended since the temple grounds involve some uneven surfaces. Modest clothing covering shoulders and knees is required to enter temple structures respectfully.

Lolei temple is part of the Roluos group, which includes Preah Ko and Bakong temples, both within a 5-kilometer radius. These temples collectively represent the earliest phase of Angkorian architecture and are worth visiting together for a comprehensive understanding of early Khmer temple design.

For a full day trip, consider adding Banteay Srei to your itinerary, about 25 kilometers northeast of Lolei, known for its intricate pink sandstone carvings. Combining these sites has a contrast between early and more developed Angkorian art and architecture, enriching your temple visits beyond the main Angkor Wat complex.