Phnom Bakheng: Sunset Temple and How to Beat the Crowds

Phnom Bakheng is one of the earliest mountain temples built during the Khmer Empire, dating back to the late 9th century. The temple is constructed in a pyramid shape with seven tiers, symbolizing Mount Meru, the sacred mountain in Hindu mythology. Its elevated location atop a small hill provides sweeping views over the surrounding Angkor landscape, including sites like Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom.

The temple's architecture is relatively simple but evocative, with stone steps leading to the summit where several small towers remain. Phnom Bakheng is often visited for its sunrise and sunset views, but the latter tends to be more crowded due to the timing and accessibility. Understanding its layout and history adds to the appreciation of this temple beyond just its views.

The ideal time to visit Phnom Bakheng is during the dry season, from November to February, when the weather is cooler and skies are clearer. Sunrise visits can be chilly but peaceful, while sunset times attract larger crowds. Phnom Bakheng opens at 5:00 am, allowing early risers to arrive well before the first light.

If your goal is to avoid crowds, aim to arrive at least an hour before sunset, which typically occurs between 5:30 pm and 6:00 pm depending on the season. Visiting during the weekday mornings can also provide a quieter experience, although the views won’t have the same lighting effect as at sunset. Keep in mind that the temple closes at 6:00 pm, so plan your timing accordingly.

Phnom Bakheng is approximately 3 kilometers west of Siem Reap town center and just 2 kilometers from Angkor Wat. The most common way to reach it is by tuk-tuk, which costs around $3 to $5 from town or about $15 to $20 per day if you hire one for a temple circuit. For those who prefer independence, renting a motorbike for $5 to $10 per day or a bicycle for $2 to $3 is a practical option.

The road to Phnom Bakheng is paved and well signposted within the Angkor Archaeological Park. After purchasing your Angkor pass ($37 for one day, $62 for three days, or $72 for seven days), you can enter starting at 5:00 am for sunrise visits. The ticket office is located near the park entrance, and tickets cannot be bought online.

Due to its popularity, Phnom Bakheng can become very crowded, especially at sunset. Here are some practical tips to enjoy the temple with fewer people:

• Arrive early: Getting there at least one hour before sunset allows you to secure a good spot and avoid the last-minute rush.
• Visit on weekdays: Weekends and holidays attract more visitors, so weekdays tend to be less busy.
• Consider sunrise: Although less popular than sunset, sunrise visits are much quieter and provide beautiful morning light.
• see alternative viewpoints: If the summit feels too crowded, the lower terraces still offer excellent views of the sunset and surrounding temples.
• Stay hydrated and bring snacks: It can get hot waiting in line, so carry water and light refreshments.

Following these tips can help you enjoy Phnom Bakheng’s atmosphere with more peace and space.

Climbing Phnom Bakheng involves ascending a steep staircase with about 100 steps to reach the top tier. The path can be uneven, so wearing comfortable shoes is advisable. The temple summit has several stone towers, and the space can get crowded when many visitors arrive simultaneously.

Photography is popular here, especially during sunset when the sky casts a reddish hue over the Angkor plains. Keep in mind that tripods are sometimes restricted due to the number of visitors. The temple itself is not as elaborately decorated as Bayon or Ta Prohm, but its historical significance and views make it a worthwhile stop. After sunset, be prepared for a brief wait for your ride back as tuk-tuks and taxis can be busy.

Phnom Bakheng’s location makes it easy to pair with other Angkor temples in the same afternoon or morning. After visiting Phnom Bakheng, you can head to Bayon Temple and Angkor Thom, both about 4 kilometers east. Alternatively, the well-known Angkor Wat lies just 2 kilometers southeast and is often combined with Phnom Bakheng in the same day.

For a quieter afternoon, consider visiting temples like Banteay Srei, which is a bit farther but known for its intricate pink sandstone carvings. Combining Phnom Bakheng with these sites can make for a full day of cultural immersion without backtracking.

Visitors must purchase an Angkor pass to enter Phnom Bakheng, with options including 1-day ($37), 3-day ($62), and 7-day ($72) tickets. Passes are bought at the official ticket office near the park entrance and cannot be purchased online or at the temple itself.

Transport options vary in price: tuk-tuks cost around $3 to $5 for a one-way trip from Siem Reap or $15 to $20 per day for temple circuits. Motorbike rentals are available for $5 to $10 per day, and bicycles can be rented for $2 to $3 per day.

Nearby accommodation ranges from budget guesthouses ($5 to $15) to mid-range hotels ($20 to $50) and upscale resorts ($80+). Food options around Siem Reap include affordable local meals for $1 to $3 and mid-range restaurants charging $5 to $15 per meal. Western-style dining options are also available for $8 to $20.